Timeless vs. Skinceuticals CE Ferulic

Vitamin C Timeless vs Skinceuticals CE Ferulic YouGlowGal You Glow Gal Esthetician Sarah Payne Hiatus Spa Dallas Skincare Beauty Blogger

Skinceuticals CE Ferulic is known as the gold standard of Vitamin C serums with copy-cat products following its footsteps, attempting to mimic the serums mystical powers. Timeless Vitamin C+E Ferulic Acid is among the most common, and one I receive questions about most often. There are certain products where budget options exist. A quality, well formulated Vitamin C serum is one of those products where in my opinion, a budget option doesn’t exist. And by budget, I mean cheap…. because budget is relative.

Skinceuticals holds the patent on stabilized ascorbic acid compositions, the ideal formulation with maximum bioavailability with the least likelihood of irritation at a low pH. Bioavailability is the degree and rate a substance is absorbed into the skin and able to have an active effect. The patent covers ascorbic acid between a pH of 2.5 and 3.0. Although the optimum level of bioavailability with the least irritation occurs between this pH range product can still penetrate at a pH of 2.0 to 3.5. Competitors are able to create ascorbic acid serums at a pH of 2.0-2.4 or 3.1-3.5, but once a serums pH surpasses 3.5 bioavailability decreases in the skin.
The formulas look similar enough, but we’re going to break them down side by side.

 

Timeless Vitamin C+E Ferulic Acid Ingredients: Water, Ethoxydiglycol, L-Ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Alpha Tocopherol, Polysorbate 80, Panthenol, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzylalcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid.

Skinceuticals CE Ferulic Ingredients: Water, Ethoxydiglycol, Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Laureth-23, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Triethanolamine, Ferulic Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate

 

In bold are ingredients not shared by both formulations:

 

Timeless Vitamin C+E Ferulic Acid
pH 2.4

Skinceuticals CE Ferulic
pH 2.5-3.0

Water – solvent Water – solvent
Ethoxydiglycol – alcohol compound used as a solvent Ethoxydiglycol – alcohol compound used as a solvent
L-Ascorbic Acid – vitamin C (20%) Ascorbic Acid – vitamin C (15%)
Propylene Glycol – alcohol that acts as a humectant; solvent for preservatives; helps ingredients penetrate skin Glycerin – solvent, humectant, and emollient; helps products spread better
Alpha Tocopherol – vitamin E (1%) Propylene Glycol – alcohol that acts as a humectant; solvent for preservatives; helps ingredients penetrate skin
Polysorbate 80 – emulsifier Laureth-23 – surfactant, emulsifier; stabilizes and acts as a delivery system
Panthenol – vitamin B complex Phenoxyethanol – stabilizer, preservative
Ferulic Acid – antioxidant, stabilizer (1%) Tocopherol – vitamin E (1%)
Sodium Hyaluronate – hydrator; gives a gel consistency Triethanolamine – pH balancer
Benzyl Alcohol – preservative Ferulic Acid – antioxidant, stabilizer (0.5%)
Dehydroacetic Acid – preservative Panthenol – vitamin B complex
Sodium Hyaluronate –  hydrator; gives a gel consistency

 

Timeless has a few preservatives added and an emulsifier.
Skinceuticals has an extra ingredient to aid in delivery, stabilizers and a pH balancer.
Triethanolamine is important.

 

Over time you will see Skinceuticals CE Ferulic change in color as it oxidizes, but this isn’t associated with the efficacy of the serum because it is highly stable and pH balanced. Skinceuticals stability testing shows their serum is at least 88% as potent even after a full year of storage.

 

From a Timeless customer service rep:

“The serum is not alcohol based. When freshly manufactured, the serum pH is approximately 2.4. As the serum ages, so can the pH, as the vitamin c begins to oxidize. The 20% Vitamin C+E Ferulic Acid, when freshly manufactured the serum is cloudy and thick in appearance with slight yellowing due to the Ferulic Acid. As the serum begins to age it starts clear up, then begins with hints yellowing. The serum can change back to a cloudy state when refrigerated or temperatures are cold, this is normal. As the serum ages, it will continue to change in color. Expiration is approximately 3 months without refrigeration and 5 months with refrigeration. We advise customers that refrigeration is recommended, as mentioned on the box, to extend the shelf life of the serum and slow down the process of oxidation. When oxidized the serum turns red/brown in color and is good to use until then.”

 

If Timeless is not properly stabilized you could assume the serum has gone bad once it’s oxidized. But we don’t know how well the formula is stabilized. By looking at the ingredients we know the pH isn’t balanced in the longterm as the serum oxidizes. In their email, Timeless mentions that as the serum ages, so can the pH.  When acidic formulas destabilize their pH increases as it attracts more water. Over time the formula will no longer penetrate skin properly, even if it is stable. On the stratum corneum, your skins surface, you will likely notice an improvement with a brighter, more even tone and lightening of pigmentation.

If Timeless isn’t pH balanced it will only pass through the stratum corneum for a short period of time. Once it has oxidized and the pH has increased it’s only sitting on top of your skin, again assuming the formula is well stabilized. Which means it’s not working where it truly matters in the deeper layers of the skin. This is where you want your actives to penetrate, otherwise, it’s a waste.

 

As stated earlier, Skinceuticals patent covers the least irritating pH of 2.5-3.0. With Timeless sitting at a low pH of 2.4 many will find their formula to be irritating, drying, or skin sensitizing. Creating a consistent environment of this nature can disrupt the skin’s barrier over time, creating inflammation and lead to symptoms we experience over exfoliating. Irritated skin also experiences an increase of transepidermal water loss aka TEWL, meaning our skin cannot retain water properly. Depending on what you’re using in your routine issues could become exacerbated. Just because your skin doesn’t show or react to a potential irritant doesn’t mean damage isn’t taking place, like stress causing low-level inflammation in our body.

 

I mentioned the following statement in my post about getting the most out of your Vitamin C serum and it applies here. Ascorbic acid serums are designed for daytime use because of their ability to neutralize free radicals. A quality serum wouldn’t be necessary to use in the evening because it creates a reservoir in your skin that remains when used daily. Timeless suggests using Vitamin C+E Ferulic Acid both AM and PM. My thoughts are either it’s a marketing suggestion to get customers to finish a bottle quickly, or worse the formulation isn’t effective enough to be used in the morning only. If that’s the case who knows how many bottles you would need to reach efficacy?

 

Unfortunately, there are many poorly formulated, unstable products with ascorbic acid on the market advertised as a budget buy, fooling many consumers. As a licensed professional it’s frustrating because these brands are causing consumer mistrust, giving a misleading perception that big brands are only out to make a profit. The reality: all brands are out to make a profit, they’re businesses after all. Talk to a cosmetic chemist and they’ll tell you smaller brands can get away with deceit more easily than the big boys since regulatory agencies don’t pay them much attention. Not to say Timeless is actively doing this, but it’s something to be aware of when shopping.

With evidence of Timeless being an inferior formula I wouldn’t suggest it as an alternative to Skinceuticals CE Ferulic. If it’s out of your price range you could start with Skinceuticals Serum AOX 10, even at 10% Vitamin C it’s a better option than Timeless Vitamin C+E Ferulic Acid. Then as your budget allows work your way up to Serum AOX 15, Serum AOX 20, or CE Ferulic.

Do I think Skinceuticals premium Vitamin C serums are expensive? Yes. But I’m personally willing to pay that premium to know I’m getting a formula that does what’s being sold.

 

 

 

25 thoughts on “Timeless vs. Skinceuticals CE Ferulic

  1. Very good rticle. How did you find Timeless’ 1% ferulic acid concentraTion? It does not smell like hot dogs so I assumed the concentration was very low my guess was less than 0.1% based on lack of any smell.

  2. Hi. Do you know anything about Cosmetic Skin Solutions Vitamin C 20% Serum + Ferulic Acid and Hyaluronic Acid? It’s also much cheaper than Skinceuticals and seems to have very similar ingredients–just a lower PH as well, like Timeless. I would get the Skinceuticals if it’s truly the MOST effective, and in the quickest time period, but it’s so expensive that I’d like to find another alternative if possible. Thanks!

  3. Thank you for writing such informative article about Vitamin C serums.

    I must add that dupes typically fall short and rarely deliver results as the original products.

    I kindly ask for your opinion on the following product. These two products are typically overlooked by bloggers and rarely mentioned. The product I would like for you to inquire about is Philosophy’s When Hope is Not Enough serum and Turbo Vitamin C Booster powder. According to Philosophy, you mix these two products together; you add few add drops of serum and mix with a scoop of Vitamin C powder. You have fresh Vitamin C mixture each time… you can also add Philosophy’s Vitamin C powder with any serum or moisturizer as well. However, I sometimes add scoop to a dollop of Philosophy’s Hope in Jar moisturizer since the pH of the Moisturizer is 3.2 and Vitamin C powder would prefer acidic environment and can deliver to skin.

    I know The Ordinary brand will be releasing Vitamin C powder as well soon–and Clinique has recently launched Vitamin C booster where you mix the powder with serum to make a fresh batch every 7 days. It appears The Ordinary/DECIEM and Clinique have kind of taken from Philosophy’s approach to Vitamin C.

    What are your thoughts/input? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks for your time!

    1. I used both Philosophy products in my early 20’s when first graduating esthetics school, working at an Ulta. I do like the brand overall. My opinion on Vitamin C powders is they make a great skin brightener, correcting “surfacey” problems like acne scarring and lightening hyperpigmentation. However, they’re not going to work on a deeper level like other forms of vitamin C that are penetrating deeply into the skin. The forms of vitamin C I’m familiar with needs to be formulated with something else to maximize penetration. They have their place in the market and could be a nice addition to a comprehensive approach to correcting pigmentation.

  4. Have loved reading your posts – so informative!! I’m curious if you still feel SkinCeuticals is worth the extra $ over some of the newer additions to the marketplace? Also, how long would you say on average a bottle lasts with am application only as instructed? Thanks so much!

    1. When it comes to a formulation using L-Ascorbic Acid, I think Skinceuticals is hard to beat. There are many fantastic formulations on the market, however, I don’t have personal experience with them in the treatment room–I can only decipher from the label. Drunk Elephant Firma C looks promising. Skinceuticals AOX should last about 3-4 months if you’re using daily. xo

  5. I know this is and old post but this paragraph left me curious and I wanted to ask.

    “Over time you will see Skinceuticals CE Ferulic change in color as it oxidizes, but this isn’t associated with the efficacy of the serum because it is highly stable and pH balanced. Skinceuticals stability testing shows their serum is at least 88% as potent even after a full year of storage”

    Does this mean it will work even after it turns dark? It seems so clear in that sentence but after years of reading dark vitamin c is a no no I wanted to ask…

    1. Hi Weiss! Yes, however I’m weary of using them once they’ve become deep orange or almost Coca Cola brown. If you’re using your Skinceuticals antioxidants everyday you’ll use the serum up before it will become a concern as long as you’re closing the bottle completely.

  6. Skincueticals is quadruple in price because of pH, less preservatives, and a longer shelf life? $165.00 a fluid oz. seems greedy to me. I am seeing results with the Timeless Vit C. I do not care if it takes a little longer to see results with Timeless, because it is under $30.00 a fluid oz, or 4 oz for $69.00.

      1. After looking at the ingredient deck on their site they only change I see is the addition of fragrance, so I’m unsure why you would experience less glow. I vaguely remember reading they switch up their formula every now and then.

  7. Hey gal! :))

    Very interesting comparison.
    But what is with the SkinCeuticals Vitamin C Serum with 10% Ascorbic Acid. There is no Triethanolamine in it???

    Greetings!
    clEo

    1. You’re right, there isn’t. I’m not a cosmetic chemist and I don’t have time to go dive into each ingredient right now… but since the concentration is lower the requirements may very well be different allowing other ingredients to do the same job.

  8. Awesome comparison. What order should you layer p50 with a Vitamin C serum? How do you fit them both into your routine? Thanks so much!

    1. Cleanse, tone, serum, moisturize. p50 is your toner so always before your serums, it will actually help them penetrate better since it prepares your skin by exfoliating and balancing! 🙂

  9. Love the break down of info, I always thought skincueticals was too expensive but now I see you can’t skimp on quality

    1. It is expensive, there’s no denying it! When you think of it as investing in skin health, and understand why it costs what it does, it’s easier to swallow

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