Are Facial Oils Damaging Your Skin?

Why Facial Oils Are Damaging Your Skin Fatty Acids Ceramides YouGlowGal You Glow Gal Esthetician Sarah Payne Hiatus Spa Dallas Skincare Beauty Blogger

Facial oils are widely popular for their ability to moisturize and hydrate skin. Yet many brands will say you can skip your moisturizer, all you need is their oil to keep your skin balanced! The problem is plant oils are composed of fatty acids, and your skin contains other lipids as well. Over time only using oil will cause damaging low-level inflammation. And inflammation is bad, mmkay?

To understand how oils can negatively affect your skin we need to backup and understand the role lipids play in skin health.

When you think of healthy skin plump well hydrated and moisturized comes to mind, for good reason. One of the main details in keeping our skin healthy is ensuring its structure remains in its best possible state. Ingredients aiding in this are referred as Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or components that mimic the structure and functions of healthy skin. Within our skin lipids prevent water evaporation, provide lubrication, and contribute to the outer texture of the stratum corneum (SC) remaining smooth.

 

Lipids account for about 15% of the stratum corneum weight composed of 50% ceramides, approximately 15% fatty acids, and approximately 25% cholesterol.

 

Our lipids within the SC are affected by age, genetics, seasonal and climate changes, and diet. When your skin is deficient of lipids it’s predisposed to dry skin, as they aid in keeping NMF inside our cells. These lipids go into our cells where they’re needed to keep cells hydrated and aqueous enzymes stable so they function well. This is how lipids keep our barrier hydrated, allowing our skin to self-repair and function accurately. The major players in retaining water in our barrier are ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids.

 

When the barrier is healthy, skin appears smooth, soft, and plump.
When the barrier is unhealthy, skin appears dry, rough, dull, and dehydrated.

 

It’s important to keep a healthy balance of all 3 lipids in the skin, otherwise barrier recovery is delayed. No single lipid is more important than another, but a lacking balance of lipids can weaken our skin’s barrier. Most facial oils don’t contain each lipid, focusing on fatty acids, causing damage to your skin in the long run.  Long term barrier dysfunction causes inflammation, dehydration, and aging because the barrier can no longer repair its self.

And here’s the thing, you guys: just because you don’t see aging, inflammation, or signs of a compromised barrier it’s happening. It won’t be noticeable overnight, it might not be noticeable in a few months, but you will definitely notice once it’s too late and taken a toll on your skin.

 

Occlusive agents increase moisture levels in skin by providing a physical barrier to epidermal water loss.
Humectants attract water from the environment and pull it into your skin.
Emollients provide some occlusivity and smooth flaky skin cells.

 

Another consideration is that facial oils are occlusives. If you’re applying oil as your moisturizer your skin is missing out on other moisturizing ingredients. Doing so means your skin may never truly be hydrated as it’s missing the benefits of humectants and emollients. Again, when skin isn’t well hydrated the barrier cannot function properly.

Oils should be considered supplemental hydration to balance your skin, not your sole source of moisture. Always, always use a moisturizer. Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore is a great option to use over your oil as it contains the perfect ratio of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol to balance skin.

In addition to the trifecta look for phospholipids and sphingolipids on your labels! Together these will keep your lipid structure balanced, too.

 

 

 

References herehere, here, and here.

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19 thoughts on “Are Facial Oils Damaging Your Skin?

  1. I wish I had read this post years ago! I tried a fancy $70 facial oil–and promptly experienced a breakout that took a year to undo! My skin also showed dry patches, which is oh so very weird on an oil-slicked complexion. Oils might work for some, but not for me. Luckily, an esthetician did diagnose my problem and help me out.

  2. Hey Sarah

    I recently came across Rationale skincare Hydravitale emulsion. This contains ceramide, fatty acid, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide. Could be a good one to check out. Let me know what you think 🙂

    1. I wish they had their ingredient list in order! It looks solid though, just missing cholesterol…but I’m still intrigued by this brand. Thanks for sharing!! 😀

  3. Sarah I would love to know if Josie Maran’s Argan Milk and Argan Oil have the right lipids? I use them both together?

      1. Hi Sarah, Thank you for responding to my question. I just purchased Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore and I would like to use it with my Argan Milk and Oil would I apply the Triple Lipid Restore before being the Argan Milk and Oil? Thank you.

        1. Argan Milk is a serum, so that will go first. Then you can apply a few drops or your Argan Oil directly to your skin or mix a few drops into Triple Lipid. Triple Lipid is a moisturizer so it will go last. Enjoy!!

  4. I always learn amazing things from your site, Sarah. This is one’s a first — I never knew that about oils. Thankfully I’m not a big oil person. I’ve never seen cholesterol as an ingredient in a moisturizer — is it listed as something else?

    1. Cholesterol will be marked as either cholesterol or c10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol. It’s not as common in skincare but that doesn’t mean there aren’t other ingredients that can inhibit production in the skin. This is on my research to do list! I’ll write about it next 🙂

  5. Have you heard of Epionce formulated by Dr. Carl Thornfeldt ? He holds the original patent on the perfect lipid ratio, it’s an amazing line !

  6. I’ve been using the B Complex Cream from Platinum Skincare. How can I tell what the lipid ratio is in it? Thanks again!

    1. You would have to reach out to the manufacturer. I found an affordable serum claiming the 3:1:1 ratio but the actives were at the very bottom of the list, I don’t trust their claim is factual. Your B Complex Cream is loaded with great ingredients for hydration! The ratio wouldn’t be of concern here because the cream doesn’t contain cholesterol, ceramides, or fatty acids per say but Niacinamide increases ceramide & fatty acid production in the skin.

      1. Thank you! I am learning so much from your website. How do you feel about emu oil as a moisturizer or to use over other products to help them penetrate deeper?

        1. Most oils molecule size are smaller than those in a moisturizer, so they would work best underneath. I would apply to damp skin, massage in, and apply moisturizer on top.

  7. Thank you for the informative post! Do you know of any moisturizers that contain the right lipids but at a lower price point? Thank you!

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